First graffiti exploring adventure

June 16, 2012

The first adventure I went on to see graffiti was with my close friend Ahmed who I met in Cairo almost 2 years ago. We both jumped on the metro and headed our way to Mohammed Mahmoud street, in downtown. This particular street is very significant in the ongoing Egyptian revolution because it leads directly into Tahrir and borders all the government buildings and ministries. This is the street that held the bloodiest battles between the people and the military over the past several months and each time clashes arise. On this street hundreds were brutally murdered, ran over by tanks, shot in the eyes by snipers, teargassed (U.S. funded), and attacked by the military forces in protest and in struggle for freedom. At the same time, this street became one of the main sites for political graffiti and street art in which people began to visually express their anger, sorrow, political opinions, demands, and reveal truths. This street goes on for many blocks in which all the walls are covered with layers and layers of graffiti. People continue to add new work on the walls that follow the current events of the revolution to bring voice to the people. My favorite photo that I fell in love with was the latest piece that was added (it's in black and painted over older graffiti) over the wall. The mural includes large paintings of several mothers of martyrs who are in deep sorrow for the losses of their sons. Some are in holding back tears, while others are hold photographs of their sons to remind people of how valuable their lives were in fighting for a free Egypt. The words say إنسى إللي مات و خليك ورا الانتخابات which means "Forget those who have died, and focus on the elections" This is a satirical message that is protesting against the elections since they are being rigged and corrupted by the old regime and the military council. Both whom have attacked Egyptians from all ends through massacres, torturing and bombings in order to divide and conquer. This message urges people to recognize the thousands of people that have been killed for Egypt's freedom and to continue fighting to get the oppressive old regime out for the generations to come. 

This graffiti shooting adventure was especially significant as Ahmed shared with me the narrative of the images and words on the wall. I wish I had something to record him with while doing this (but will in the future!). He also taught me some basic conversation starters and tips to engage with others. Since many people will witness / observe me taking photos it is important to keep them in mind and be respectful as well. Since there is a huge sense of xenophobia here due to lame media attempts to scare people of foreign spies it has been important to talk to the people and engage them in the research I am doing as well. Many times individuals will come up to me and ask me about my background and my role. For locals I speak with them in Arabic sharing that I am Pakistani and studying the art of the revolution.  Here are some of the amazing shots from that day. 

Mohammed Mahmoud street (has been the main battlefield for all the clashes, graffiti goes on for blocks)

"I am a martyr" The faces of key figures who were martyred in the clashes (including scholars, students, religious leaders, activists...)

Ahmed Harrara, 31, is a dentist who was shot by a rubber bullet in his eye in January 2011. In  November 2011 he went back out to the square and lost his other eye the same way... all in sacrifice for Egypt. Must read article: http://www.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2101745_2102138_2102236,00.html

"The 2012 Presidential Elections" This shows the military council behind the election process as  their hands are covered with the blood of martyrs. 

Another depiction of  the military forces (SCAF).

Martyr: Alaa Abdel Hadi. He was a 5th year medical student at Cairo University and was killed in the clashes. Must read article: http://english.ahram.org.eg/NewsContent/1/64/29543/Egypt/Politics-/Students-bid-farewell-to-fallen-colleague;-army-in.aspx

Mural on right: Depiction of Mubarak's regime continuing to run Egypt even though he's no longer president. Most of the individuals that were appointed by Mubarak are still calling the shots.

Egyptian or non-Egyptian... people stop by and take snapshots of the work.

Tags over larger murals. "Fuck SCAF"

Maryr: haven't found details on this one yet...

I read a very powerful story about this piece from an amazing blog (http://suzeeinthecity.wordpress.com/) . While artist Ammar Abo Bakr was paining this a group of 4 young boys stood behind in tears. The author of the blog and the artist of mural spoke to the boys to find out they were just returning from their best friend's burial and were taken aback to see their best friend being painted on the wall.

Mothers of the martyrs 

Martyr

"Women with gas tanks" depicts the crisis of gas shortages in Egypt. Women literally stand in long lines to get butane tanks for their kitchens. Many times the prices are 6x what it should be since there is a huge shortage. There is a huge shortage of natural gas as well where gas station simply have no gas, and cars can't refuel. Egypt being a country so rich in natural gas is not getting to benefit from it as most of it goes to Israel. 

Woman holding a gas tank that says "change". Article: http://www.egyptindependent.com/news/gas-shortages-egypt-escalate-despite-government%E2%80%99s-denial

Faces in protest screaming "down, down military rule"

A vision of the presidential election results that show anyone "elected" would still be under  the military council.

Cool stencil of a tow truck tossing out a tank.

Here is a famous piece that was plasted over by security forces. Underneath it was a large mural of Sheikh Emad Effat who was one of Egypt's most famous Islamic scholars. This Sheikh taught and tutored hundreds of students Al-Azhar mosque and was a revolutionary activist. He was shot in the heart during a sit in by military police most likely due to his political engagements. Security forces painted over the mural of him that had large wings behind his back to kill the spirit of the revolution and make him appear to be an person that is not to be honored. Must read article: http://www.egyptindependent.com/news/revolutions-sheikh-killed-52

This Quranic verse was painted right beside Sheikh Emad Effat's piece. Translated: "And they will say, "Our Lord, indeed we obeyed our princes and great men, and they led us astray from the (right) way. Our Lord! Oh, give them double torment and curse them with a mighty curse!" (Surah Al-Ahzaab 67-68)

Mohammed Mahmoud street is a key location because this street is perpendicular to the many streets that lead into all the governmental buildings. Because of this security forces tried to prevent people from politically organizing by putting massive blockades on every street leading into the governmental headquarters. These blockades are massive blocks of concrete that are almost impossible to move. Graffiti artists have used these blockades to draw their visions beyond them. This one appears to be a submarine where people are looking out to what is beyond.

This blockade has a 2 part scene to it. On the right is the current Egypt with protesters, fighting, struggle, and the Egyptian flag. On the left is a hopeful vision of a peaceful Egypt where a mother can push her kid in the stroller, kids can play in the park, and birds fly freely in the air. 

Solidarity with Palestinians in the Egyptian revolution with this piece and the presence of the Handala character.

A beautiful piece of a protestor (supposedly from Greece) dancing gracefully with a ballerina.

"New revolution: death of the martyr" depicts the rigged presidential elections by military forces.

A really long snake with the heads of SCAF members. The snake goes on for the rest of the block with other recognizable faces of the old regime. The print of the snake is of the military uniform. 

Continued...

You can't really see it from here, but Suzanne Mubarak's face was one of the heads attached to the snake as well.

Well, this includes the pictures from my first graffiti adventure! I went out several times after this to other locations and will post those pictures eventually as well. Stay tuned and comment! =)